Moisturizers play a crucial role in daily skincare, aiming to preserve skin integrity, boost natural moisturizing factor (NMF) levels, enhance the skin's appearance by retaining water content, prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and contribute to the skin's natural barrier repair mechanism. They fulfill a vital function by providing skin comfort and alleviating dryness.
A moisturizer is a substance or product applied topically. The key to effective moisturization lies in creating a product that is both efficient and well-tolerated, thereby promoting compliance through consistent topical application. A product that stains clothes, leaves the skin feeling sticky and greasy, or interferes with the application of makeup is unlikely to be used regularly by patients.
Most moisturizer products consist of a blend of different moisturizing agents and are designed to be 'cosmetically elegant.' There are three main categories of moisturizers: occlusives, emollients, and humectants. While all moisturizers aim to enhance skin moisture by increasing water content in the stratum corneum (SC), they achieve this through distinct mechanisms.
***The Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) is exclusively located within the cells of the stratum corneum (SC), imparting humectant (water-binding) qualities to the SC. Composed of highly water-soluble chemicals, NMF possesses the ability to absorb significant amounts of water, even in low-humidity conditions.
“Carrier” or “Vehicle” versus “Active” Ingredients?
A carrier or vehicle ingredient serves as the base on which the ‘active’ ingredients are delivered. In the context of moisturizers, the vehicle is often an active moisturizer itself. By selecting the appropriate base with the ideal active ingredients, it is possible to tailor your skincare to your specific needs. For instance, selecting a 'moisturizing base' with active humectant ingredients can effectively address both water-dry and lipid-dry skin.
Moisturizers come in different vehicle formulations:
Ointment (approximately 80% oil, 20% water)
Cream (approximately 50% oil, 50% water)
Lotion ( approximately 70% water, 30% oil)
Serum (water-based)
Gel (water-based emulsion)
In cosmetic preparations, creams, lotions and gels are the most commonly used moisturizers, whereas serums tend to be carriers for active ingredients such as antioxidants.
Types of Moisturizers
Occlusives
The term 'occlusive,' derived from the adjective, is described as 'of or being a bandage or dressing that closes a wound and keeps it from the air.' In cosmetics, the focus is on covering and preventing exposure to air. Occlusives create an artificial and temporary moisturizing effect for dry skin by forming a film or barrier on the skin, slowing down transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and locking in moisture. The occlusive effect ceases once the ingredients are removed. In moisturizers, occlusives are often combined with humectant ingredients for enhanced results. Common occlusive ingredients include petrolatum (mineral oil jelly), beeswax, lanolin, shea butter, and certain types of silicones like dimethicone. Additionally, natural oils such as grapeseed oil, olive oil, and sunflower oil are increasingly included in this category.
Humectants
Humectants are water-soluble substances known for their high capacity to absorb water. They can attract moisture from the atmosphere, especially if the humidity exceeds 80%, and from the underlying epidermis. While humectants contribute to skin hydration by drawing water from the environment, in low-humidity conditions, they may extract moisture from the deeper epidermis and dermis, potentially increasing skin dryness. To address this, they are often more effective when combined with occlusives. Humectants draw water into the skin, causing a slight swelling of the stratum corneum (SC) that creates the perception of smoother skin with fewer wrinkles. Consequently, many moisturizers are marketed as 'antiwrinkle creams,' even though they do not provide a long-term antiwrinkling effect. Commonly used humectants include glycerin, sorbitol, sodium hyaluronate, urea, propylene glycol, and alpha hydroxy acids.
Emollient
Emollients are substances added to cosmetics to soften and smooth the skin. They function by filling the spaces between skin cells, leading to a smoother surface. Moreover, many emollients serve dual roles as humectants and occlusive moisturizers. Common emollients include acetyl stearate, glyceryl stearate, octyl octanoate, decyl oleate, and isostearyl alcohol.
Hyaluronic Acid in Moisturizer
Hyaluronic acid (HA), also known as hyaluronan, is a linear carbohydrate polysaccharide present in all living organisms, with its highest concentration found in the human dermis. The growing popularity of HA fillers, injected into the dermis to address wrinkles and provide hydration, has led to the availability of numerous HA-containing moisturizers in the market. When applied topically, HA acts as a humectant and can penetrate the stratum corneum (SC) if it is of the correct size. HA proves to be a valuable ingredient in enhancing facial appearance, particularly in cases of insufficient skin plumpness, reduced skin hydration, and signs of photoaging.
Other Ingredients In Moisturizers
Numerous moisturizers incorporate antioxidants, including vitamins C and E, coffeeberry, green tea, and coenzyme Q10. These ingredients are widely used because antioxidants are believed to diminish the levels of free radicals that can harm the skin and associated organs—a process associated with skin aging. Additionally, niacinamide and soy are popular additives in cosmetic moisturizers.
How To Choose a Moisturizer?
Selecting the right moisturizer involves considering your skin type, specific concerns, and personal preferences.
Dry skin: Choose a rich cream-based moisturizer with natural oils.
Oily skin: Opt for a lightweight, non-comedogenic (won't clog pores), and water-based moisturizer.
Combination skin: With dryness in some areas and oiliness in the T-zone, consider a moisturizer that balances hydration, such as a gel-based or oil-free product. Individuals with sensitive skin should steer clear of products with potential irritants like alcohol or synthetic fragrances.
Application Method
Moisturizers should be applied thinly, following the direction of hair growth, to prevent the clogging of hair follicles. For instance, apply in downward strokes over the body, moving towards the hands and feet on the arms and legs. For the face, apply from the mid-face outward. This is especially crucial when moisturizing acne-prone skin, particularly when using thicker and greasier products.
Summary
Moisturizers serve as a beneficial method for managing damaged or dehydrated skin, helping mitigate the effects of both internal and external factors, such as prolonged use of harsh surfactants and soaps, on stratum corneum permeability. Additionally, they support the skin's self-repair mechanisms by maintaining an adequate water content, which is essential for normal enzymatic function and the continuation of desquamation. Ultimately, selecting the right product for specific concerns enhances the overall effectiveness of the treatment. At Dream Clinic, we are welcoming you to embark on a journey to unveil the radiant and beautiful skin you have always dreamed of. Whether you are seeking to address specific concerns, revitalize your complexion, or simply pamper yourself, our comprehensive range of advanced treatment awaits you. Get in touch with the Dream Clinic team today!
References:
1. Dr. Leslie Baumann (October 04, 2022), Occlusive ingredients in moisturiser, Skin Type Solutions https://skintypesolutions.com/blogs/skincare/occlusive-moisturizers-and-ingredients
2. Bob Frazier (October 3, 2007), Sodium Hyaluronate in Skincare Products, How Humectants work https://futurederm.com/sodium-hyaluronate-in-skincare-products/
3. DrB, Toptical Tip: Apply emollient sparingly. https://www.atopicskindisease.com/articles/toptip1