What is retinol?
Retinol is a member of the retinoid family, which comprises compounds derived from vitamin
A. Retinol, in particular, plays a significant role in skincare and dermatology. It exerts its
effects by inhibiting matrix metalloproteinases, a group of enzymes responsible for breaking
down collagen, a crucial component of skin structure. Additionally, retinol has been found to
reduce melanocytes (cells responsible for skin pigmentation) and inhibit the hyperproliferation of keratinocytes, ultimately strengthening the skin's barrier and improving overall complexion. These combined actions promote exfoliation, stimulate dermal collagen synthesis, and facilitate angiogenesis, which is the formation of new blood vessels (Kong. Ret al, 2015).
Derivatives of Retinol
The fundamental structure of retinol is known as all–trans–retinol. Over time, researchers
have sought to refine this compound to enhance stability and reduce potential skin irritation.
Retinoids are often classified into generations based on their structural modifications:
First Generation: Non-aromatic retinoids like tretinoin and isotretinoin, which laid the foundation but came with irritation side effects.
Second Generation: Enhanced stability with the addition of aromatic compounds, lowering side effect risks.
Third Generation: Multiple aromatic compounds for superior photostability and minimal irritation, exemplified by adapalene.
The Verity of "Morning C Night A" Golden Skincare Rule
This popular skincare guideline revolves around the use of two essential compounds: Vitamin C and Retinol.
Vitamin C, a potent antioxidant, enhances morning skincare routines by fortifying the skin against UV rays and environmental damage.
Retinol, is known for its skin irritation and exfoliation properties, making skin more “sensitive” to UV and causing discomfort. Additionally, retinol itself is sensitive to UV light, which can render it less effective if used during the day. It is advisable to use retinol at night and always apply sunscreen when exposed to UV rays.
When should I start using retinol-based products?
Introducing retinol to your skincare routine is a personalized decision based on your specific goals and concerns. There's no one-size-fits-all answer. Some start in their early 20s for preventive measures, aiming to maintain youthful skin. Others begin in their 30s to address the initial signs of aging. Regardless, moderation is crucial when incorporating retinol, as understanding its role and potential effects helps strike the right balance between benefits and side effects.
Incorporating Retinol into Your Skincare Routine
New retinol users should exercise caution when choosing product strength, as labels can be
deceptive. To guide your choice, it's helpful to understand that cellular and molecular changes are induced at a concentration of 0.25% retinol and 0.025% retinoic acid (Duell E.A. et al, 1997)
Considerations for Strength:
1. Retinol Derivatives: Different derivatives have varying potency, with retinoic acid being the most potent.
2. Potency: Understanding the specific retinol derivative can offer insight into potency.
3. Packaging: Be mindful of the packaging and storage of your retinol product.] Exposure to air and sunlight can lead to product degradation.
4. Formulation: Match the formulation to your skin type; individuals with dry skin may prefer a retinol product that contains moisturizing factors to counteract potential dryness or irritation.
Incorporating Retinol into Your Skincare Routine:
As mentioned, it is advisable for retinol to be used at night. To minimize potential irritation,
ensure your skin is well moisturized before applying retinol. When layering skincare products, follow the sequence of less-concentrated to more-concentrated formulas. This means retinol should come after your toner and serum if it's in a cream-based form. A pea-sized amount of retinol can be either mixed with your moisturizer, applied after moisturizer, or sandwiched between two layers of moisturizer (moisturizer → retinol → moisturizer). If your retinol product is in serum form, it can be applied prior to your moisturizer as long as it doesn't irritate your skin. Visible results typically emerge within 3 to 6 months of consistent usage, with the timeline varying on the potency of the retinol used, as the transformation begins in the deeper layers of the skin.
Do I need to use it in staging dose and alternative days?
While retinoids offer remarkable skincare benefits, they can sometimes cause side effects like flakiness due to increased keratinocyte growth and dryness from elevated transepidermal water loss, especially in sensitive skin. A gradual step-up approach is recommended for those without redness or severe side effects, helping the skin adapt to retinoid use.
Step-up approach
Moreover, when applying retinoids to the neck, which is more sensitive, it is recommended
to do so twice weekly to mitigate potential irritation (Baumann. L, 2009).
Prescription Tretinoin: Who is it for?
Prescription medications, by definition, are medications that require a physician's prescription for use. In the realm of skincare, topical tretinoin is a commonly prescribed medication with specific applications. It is primarily prescribed for the treatment of acne vulgaris and, to a lesser extent, for improving skin texture, addressing pigmentations, and reducing the appearance of wrinkles. In cases of moderate to severe acne vulgaris, topical tretinoin is often prescribed as part of a combination therapy, which may include oral antibiotics and, in some cases, oral isotretinoin. Another prescription topical retinoid available in Malaysia is adapalene, typically formulated at a concentration of 0.1%.
It's imperative to emphasize that tailoring treatment to address an individual's unique needs and concerns is paramount. Seeking the guidance of a skin care professional can offer valuable insights. At Dream Clinic, we warmly welcome you to reach out to us for expert assistance in achieving your skin goals.
References
Baumann, L. (2009) Cosmetic dermatology: Principles and practice. 2nd edn. McGraw Hill.
Duell, E. A., Kang, S., & Voorhess, J. J. (1997). UNOCCLUDED retinol penetrates human skin in vivo more effectively than unoccluded retinyl palmitate or retinoic acid. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 109(3), 301–305. https://doi.org/10.1111/1523-1747.ep12335788
Kong, R. et al. (2015) ‘A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin’, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(1), pp. 49–57. doi:10.1111/jocd.12193.
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