If you’ve been scrolling through TikTok or Xiaohongshu lately, you’ve probably seen beauty influencers raving about the latest skincare phenomenon: spicules. These tiny, needle-like wonders are the new must-have in every beauty aficionado's routine. From viral videos demonstrating their transformative effects to detailed product reviews, spicules are taking the skincare world by storm. But what exactly are these mysterious micro-needles, and why are they causing such a buzz? Let’s dive into the science, benefits, and everything you need to know about this trending skincare innovation.
Credits to: Spicule Formation in calcareous sponges: Coordinated expression of biomineralization genes and spicule-type specific genes. Master’s program ‘Geobiology and Paleobiology’ - LMU Munich. Available at: https://www.mgap.geo.uni-muenchen.de/publications_students/spicule_formation/index.html
What are Spicules?
Spicules, tiny needle-like structures, have surged into the limelight of skincare. Originally derived from marine sponges, these microscopic wonders are composed of silica. When incorporated into skincare products, spicules promise to enhance the delivery of active ingredients and stimulate skin rejuvenation, making them a hot topic in the beauty industry.
Credits to: Van Soest et al, 2015. PLOS ONE https://dx.doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0035105
Why Spicules are Trending
Spicules have become a buzzword in the world of skincare, touted for their ability to improve skin texture, reduce fine lines, and promote a youthful glow. This trend is accompanied with various studies that support the benefit of spicules. Positive yields such as increased epidermal thickness, skin health, heightened skin absorption and reduction of wrinkles are shown. As consumers seek innovative solutions for anti-aging, acne, and overall skin health, spicules have found their place in serums, creams, and facial treatments. Their natural origin and unique mechanism of action appeal to those looking for cutting-edge yet organic skincare options.
How Spicules Work
The secret behind spicules lies in their physical structure. When applied to the skin, these tiny needles create micro-channels that facilitate deeper penetration of active ingredients. This process not only enhances the effectiveness of skincare products but also triggers the skin’s natural healing response. The micro-traumas caused by spicules stimulate collagen production, leading to firmer, smoother skin over time.
Credits to: Liang, X. et al. (2020) ‘Skin delivery of Sirna using sponge spicules in combination with cationic flexible liposomes’, Molecular Therapy - Nucleic Acids, 20, pp. 639–648. doi:10.1016/j.omtn.2020.04.003.
Top Spicule Products
As spicules enhance product absorption, combining them with key ingredients can significantly amplify skincare benefits. Various studies show that spicules paired with ingredients like niacinamide, human umbilical cord-derived MSC-Exos (hucMSC-Exos), and epidermal growth factor (EGF) can lead to remarkable improvements in skin health. Niacinamide increases skin elasticity, density, and brightness, while hucMSC-Exos offer anti-photoaging effects, and EGF helps reduce wrinkles. Among the popular products leveraging these combinations are VT Reedle Shot 100, SC Beaute, and Matrigen B-tox Peel:
1. VT Reedle Shot 100: This product leverages spicules to deliver potent ingredients deep into the skin, including hyaluronic acid (HA), enhancing elasticity and reducing the appearance of fine lines.
2. SC Beaute: Infused with spicules and Combined Human Stem Cell Culture (ADSC-CM), this skincare line contains over 500 proteins, growth factors, and luxury ingredients like enzymes. It also features two types of plant stem cell extracts (apple fruit culture cell extract and argan stem cells) for antioxidant, anti-aging, and moisturizing effects. Additionally, Bis-Glyceryl Ascorbate, a long-acting derivative of vitamin C, helps suppress melanin production, reduce melanin levels, stimulate collagen production, and condition the skin.
3. Matrigen B-tox Peel: Known for its advanced formulations, Matrigen incorporates spicules alongside biosilica to promote skin regeneration, improve texture, and provide a smoother, more even skin tone.
Own collage from google images
Spicules vs. Microneedling vs. Dermal Rollers
Understanding the differences between spicules, microneedling, and dermal rollers is essential before incorporating spicules into your skincare routine. Here’s a quick comparison:
Who Should Use Spicules?
Spicules are suitable for individuals seeking non-invasive, natural solutions for skin aging, acne, and overall texture improvement. However, they are not recommended for those with highly sensitive skin, active rosacea, or severe skin conditions. As always, consulting with a dermatologist before starting any new treatment is advisable.
How Often Can You Use Spicules?
The frequency of spicule treatment depends on the product and individual skin tolerance. Generally, products with spicules can be used 2-3 times a week. Overuse can lead to irritation, so it’s crucial to follow the manufacturer’s guidelines and pay attention to how your skin responds.
Post-Care Tips
After using spicules, your skin may be more sensitive. Here are some essential post-care tips:
- Hydration: Use a gentle, hydrating moisturizer to soothe the skin.
- Sun Protection: Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen to protect the skin from UV damage.
- Avoid Harsh Products: Steer clear of exfoliants and active ingredients like retinoids or acids for a few days to prevent irritation.
- Gentle Cleansing: Use a mild cleanser to avoid disrupting the skin’s barrier.
Final Thoughts
Spicules offer an innovative approach to skincare, promising enhanced product penetration, collagen stimulation, and improved skin texture. It can be a valuable addition to their skincare arsenal when used deliberately. However, they are not suitable for everyone. Individuals with sensitive skin should exercise caution and ensure they have a solid post-care routine in place to avoid potential irritation. For those feeling adventurous, speak to us doctors in Dream Clinic today to discuss the most suitable skincare routine and find the best plan tailored for you. Hand in hand, we'll achieve your most radiant, youthful skin yet!
References
Ha, J.-M. et al. (2017) ‘The effect of micro-spicule containing epidermal growth factor on periocular wrinkles’, Annals of Dermatology, 29(2), p. 187. doi:10.5021/ad.2017.29.2.187.
Han, D., Kim, G. and Kang, S. (2022) ‘The Skin Care Effects and Percutaneous Absorptivity of The Spicules-containing Cosmetics’, Journal of the Korean Society of Cosmetology, 26(4), pp. 886–896.
Juhaščik, M., Kováčik, A. and Huerta-Ángeles, G. (2022) ‘Recent advances of hyaluronan for skin delivery: From structure to fabrication strategies and applications’, Polymers, 14(22), p. 4833. doi:10.3390/polym14224833.
Kim, T.G. et al. (2022) ‘A novel dermal delivery system using natural spicules for cosmetics and therapeutics’, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 21(10), pp. 4754–4764. doi:10.1111/jocd.14771.
Tansathien, K. et al. (2019) ‘Development of sponge microspicule cream as a transdermal delivery system for protein and growth factors from deer antler velvet extract’, Biological and Pharmaceutical Bulletin, 42(7), pp. 1207–1215. doi:10.1248/bpb.b19-00158.
Zhang, C. et al. (2021) ‘Enhanced skin delivery of therapeutic peptides using spicule-based topical delivery systems’, Pharmaceutics, 13(12), p. 2119. doi:10.3390/pharmaceutics13122119.
Zhang, K. et al. (2020) topical application of exosomes derived from human umbilical cord mesenchymal stem cells in combination with sponge spicules for treatment of photoaging, International Journal of Nanomedicine, Volume 15, pp. 2859–2872. doi:10.2147/ijn.s249751.