在当今社交媒体中，热门话题“刷酸”美容在小红书上引发热潮。虽然这种化学换肤方法能够带来肌肤的明显改善，但同时也存在一定的风险。在这篇文章中，我们将深入探讨“刷酸”美容的定义、原理、分类，以及在医疗机构和自家使用的差异，帮助读者更全面地了解这一美容趋势。
刷酸的定义和原理
“刷酸”美容，又称为化学换肤，是将化学制剂涂在皮肤表面，导致皮肤可控的损伤后促进新的皮肤再生。 根据化学换肤的作用深度，可分为浅层、中层和深层换肤。刷酸的原理主要如下：
除去死皮细胞：促进角质层的新陈代谢，使肌肤更加光滑。
去除黑色素：减少表皮层内的黑色素沉积，使肤色更白亮。
刺激胶原增生：有助于重建皮肤屏障，改善肌肤弹性。
改善瑕疵：针对黑头、闭口、痘痘、黄褐斑等问题有一定疗效。
“酸”的分类
“刷酸”所使用的主要“酸”包括α羟基酸(果酸 AHA)，β羟基酸(水杨酸 BHA)， 一元羧酸 (三氯乙酸 TCA) 以及Jessner 溶液等都是其中的翘楚。果酸主要有甘醇酸 (glycolic acid)、乳酸 (lactic acid) 等；对痤疮和毛周角化（粗糙鸡皮）都有疗效。而水杨酸 (salicylic acid) 则是用于治疗痘痘、黄褐斑和皮肤老化等问题。当然，不同“酸”的浓度和种类会影响换肤的深度和效果。在化妆品中也可以添加一些“酸”，最为常见的有果酸和水杨酸。然而，这些成分在化妆品中的浓度也比医药级别的酸低。使用量则取决于皮肤适应度，酸浓度；以低浓度，高保湿，低频率为基础进级。化妆品内含有的水杨酸一般低于 3.0%，而果酸则低于 6.0%。医药级别的酸浓度则分为水杨酸 20 - 30%; 果酸 20 - 70%。
医疗机构与自家使用的差异
在医美诊所刷酸和自家刷酸存在显著差异。专业医生通过对患者肤质的判断、“酸”的种类和浓度的选择以及操作的时间长度等方面进行精准把握，避免过度的刺激和损伤。相比之下，自家使用可能存在操作不当、“酸”浓度选择不当等问题，增加了风险。
适合和不适合刷酸的人群
刷酸并非适用于所有人。皮肤敏感、对化学制剂过敏、皮炎患者、感染性皮肤病患者、儿童、孕妇和哺乳期妇女等人群不适合使用刷酸美容方法。对于每个人的皮肤特质，选择合适的“酸”和浓度是至关重要的。
刷酸后的注意事项
刷酸后需要特别注意皮肤的清洁、补水和防晒工作。在全脸使用前应先进行皮肤测试，逐渐增加使用量。如果皮肤出现明显发炎，应停止使用。白天更要记得进行防晒；刷酸后的肌肤更加敏感，对紫外线的抵抗能力下降，因此防晒必不可少。此外，刷酸后的关键时期需选择温和的保湿产品，帮助肌肤保持水分平衡，促进愈合和修复过程。
居家酸 v.s. 酵素去皮
酵素去皮和化学换肤也有着不同的原理；酵素去皮是通过使用天然的酶来分解角质层的蛋白质。通常采用水果酶（如木瓜酵素、菠萝酵素）或者其他植物酶，这些酶可以温和地溶解角质，促进死皮细胞的脱落。由于酵素去皮更为温和，适合敏感肌肤，所以可以更频繁地使用。
无论你是在专业医美诊所寻找专业服务，还是在家里探索护肤新境界，了解这些护肤关键点至关重要。如果你追求专业指导和个性化的护理，不妨前往Dream Clinic，我们专业的医生将为你提供详尽的咨询和定制化的美容方案，确保你的肌肤得到最完美的呵护，愿你的美肌之路光彩照人。
Revealing the Hidden Radiance, Let’s Talk about Peels
In today's world of social media, the trending beauty practice of "acid peels" has sparked a craze on platforms like Xiaohongshu (Little Red Book). While this chemical exfoliation method offers noticeable skin improvements, it comes with certain risks. In this article, we will delve into the definition, principles, and classification of acid peels, and the differences between professional and at-home use, providing readers with a comprehensive understanding of this beauty trend.
Definition and Principles of Acid Peels
"Acid peels," also known as chemical peels, involve applying chemical agents to the skin's surface, causing controlled damage to promote skin regeneration. Depending on the depth of action, acid peels can be categorized as superficial, medium-depth, or deep peels. The principles of acid peels include:
Removing Dead Skin Cells: Promoting the metabolism of the stratum corneum, resulting in smoother skin.
Reducing Melanin Deposits: Diminishing melanin deposition in the epidermis for a brighter complexion.
Stimulating Collagen Production: Aiding in rebuilding the skin barrier and improving skin elasticity.
Improving Flaws: Effective against blackheads, closed comedones, acne, and hyperpigmentation.
Classification of "Acids"
The primary acids used in acid peels include α-hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic acid; β-hydroxy acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid; monohydroxy acids with an example of trichloroacetic acid (TCA), and solutions like Jessner's solution. The concentration and type of acid significantly influence the depth and effectiveness of the peel. Cosmetic products may also contain acids, with common ones being glycolic and salicylic acids. However, their concentrations in cosmetics are lower compared to medical-grade acids. Salicylic acid in cosmetics is usually below 3.0%, and glycolic acid is below 6.0%, whereas medical-grade concentrations range from 20-30% for salicylic acid and 20-70% for glycolic acid.
AHA | BHA | BHA |
Get rid of impurities and dead skin cells on the skin | Cleans the dust, residues, and sebum on the pores | Minimize moisture loss to soften dead skin cels |
|
|
|
Differences Between Professional and At-Home Use Acid Peels
There are notable differences between undergoing acid peels at a medical aesthetic clinic and attempting them at home. Professional practitioners exercise precise control over factors such as skin assessment, acid type, concentration selection, and duration of the procedure. These minimize the risk of excessive irritation or damage. Conversely, at-home use may involve improper application and inappropriate acid concentration, increasing the risk of adverse effects.
Are you a good candidate?
Acid peel is not for everyone. Individuals with sensitive skin, allergies to chemical agents, dermatitis, infectious skin diseases, children, pregnant and breastfeeding women, among others, are not recommended to use acid peels. Choosing the appropriate acid and concentration based on individual skin traits is crucial.
Post-Peel Care
After undergoing an acid peel, meticulous attention to skincare is essential. Adequate cleansing, hydration, and sun protection are crucial. A patch test before full-face application is advised, gradually increasing usage. If inflammation occurs, usage should be halted. Sunscreen is imperative post-peel, as the skin becomes more sensitive to UV radiation. During this critical period, gentle moisturizers aid in maintaining skin moisture balance, promoting healing, and facilitating repair.
At-Home Acid vs. Enzyme Exfoliation
Enzyme exfoliation, using natural enzymes to break down protein in the stratum corneum, differs from chemical peels. Typically employing fruit enzymes like papain (papaya enzyme) or bromelain (pineapple enzyme), these enzymes gently dissolve dead skin cells, making it suitable for sensitive skin and allowing more frequent use.
Whether seeking professional services at a medical aesthetic clinic or exploring skincare at home, understanding these key skincare points is crucial. For personalized guidance and professional care, visit Dream Clinic! Our expert doctors provide comprehensive consultations and customized beauty plans, ensuring your skin receives the perfect care on your journey to radiant beauty!
参考文/Refrences：
科学认识"刷酸"美容. 科学认识"刷酸"美容-新华网. (n.d.). http://www.xinhuanet.com/healthpro/20210812/0e63144eaffb40e9a94344fc62b734ab/c.html
Castillo, D. E., & Keri, J. (2018). Chemical peels in the treatment of acne: Patient selection and Perspectives. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, Volume 11, 365–372. https://doi.org/10.2147/ccid.s137788
O’Connor, A. A., Lowe, P. M., Shumack, S., & Lim, A. C. (2017). Chemical Peels: A review of current practice. Australasian Journal of Dermatology, 59(3), 171–181. https://doi.org/10.1111/ajd.12715
Research progress on the efficacy and influencing factors of side effects of Chemical Peel. (2023). Advances in Clinical Medicine, 13(05), 8225–8230. https://doi.org/10.12677/acm.2023.1351151
Trevisol, T. C., Henriques, R. O., Souza, A. J., & Furigo, A. (2021). An overview of the use of proteolytic enzymes as exfoliating agents. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 21(8), 3300–3307. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.14673